Stuff you need backpacking around Ghana

Because Ghana was colonized by the British, English has become the official language, and many Ghanians (particularly in urban centres) you'll meet will be able to speak English. Official government documents are kept in English, but there over 40 distinct languages spoken in Ghana including English, Twi, Ga, Ewe, Dagbani, and so on. "Obruni", the Akan word for foreigner literally means "white man", is generally shouted to greet any tourist in an unoffensive way (sometimes). Obruni is used in a similar way as the word "Toubab" is used further west in Mali, Guinea, the Gambia and Senegal. Pidgin English is about the the most typical form of English you will find. Phrases like "My head is paining me" are some of the favorites. In the Northern Regions and among Ghanaian Muslims in general, the Hausa language is used as a lingua franca.

Food is extremely cheap in Ghana. Traditional food is fun to try and easy to enjoy. Fufu, the most widely served traditional dish, consists of pounded balls of yam, plantain, or cassava served with soup, called a stew, and a side of goat meat or fish. Stews are typically made of groundnuts, okra, other vegetables, and a large amount of palm oil. Banku is a fermented corn version of the dish. Rice dishes are also typical, but not considered a "real" meal by many Ghanaians, males especially. Jollof rice is a dish as varied as its chef, but generally consists of white rice cooked with vegetables, meat pieces, spices, and palm oil. Waakye is a mix of beans and rice, typically served with gari, a powder of ground cassava. Often rice dishes are served with shredded lettuce, cucumber and tomatoes on the side with a dollop of Heinz salad cream or mayonnaise. Such meals are extremely cheap from street vendors and come as little as GH₵1.50 to GH₵2.50. Plantains, yams, and sweet potatoes are prepared in various ways and serve as small snacks. Kelewele, a spiced fried plantain snack, is especially delicious. Fresh fruits such as pineapple, mango, papaya, coconut, oranges, and bananas are delightful when in season and come when applicable by the bag for as little as 10 cents. A great African meal in a restaurant can cost as little as GH₵3.00 to GH₵7.00. For instance, a lobster and shrimp dinner can cost a mere GH₵6. There are also a number of Western and Chinese style restaurants available especially in Osu, a trendy suburb of Accra.

Drinking water from the tap is not generally considered to be safe, so choices include plastic bottled water (eg. Voltic, 1.5l appx. GH₵0.60), boiled or filtered tap water, and "pure water" sachets. These sachets are filtered and come in 500 ml. portions. Many foreigners prefer bottled water. Water in sealed plastic sachets is generally not considered safe. Athough easily accessible and an unique experience, small studies have shown varying amounts of fecal bacteria suggestive the source may be tap water. If you want to play it safe, stick with carbonated beverages. In Accra's expat visited bars, a beer will cost between GH₵1.50 and GH₵2.50. Fruit juices GH₵1.00, water GH₵0.80 to GH₵1.00. Star (pronounced "Staah") and Club are two of the more popular beers served. For a more interesting and rewarding experience, visit a "spot," a bar signified by the blue and white stripes on the outside of the building. They are cheaper and you will undoubtedly be able to meet some local Ghanaians as well as hear the newest hip-life songs. A soft drink such as Coke, Fanta, 7UP (called "minerals" by locals) are widely available for GH₵0.25. Be aware that the bottles that minerals or beer is served to you in are owned by the bottling company-if you do not return it to the seller, they stand to lose GH₵0.50 cedis-more than you most likely paid for the drink. If you are not going to consume the drink at the "spot" or at the roadside stand, make sure you let the seller know. Often, you will be asked for a deposit which will be returned upon the return of the bottle.

Ghana Cedi was redenominated July 2007. The new "Ghana Cedi" (GH₵) equals 10,000 old cedis. During the transition period of six months, the old cedi is known as "cedi", and the new cedi is known as "Ghana Cedi". US Dollars are accepted by some of the major tourist hotels but you shouldn't rely on this. EURO in cash are the most useful currency to take with you and you will sometimes find that bars/restaurants will be willing to change them for you if you need Cedis outside banking hours. Approximate exchange rates as of December, 2007, are:

• 1 British Pound = GH₵ 2.02
• 1 US Dollar = GH₵ 0.98
• 1 Euro = GH₵ 1.44

A village market near Lake Volta There are many Forex Bureaus in Accra, and a few in the other major cities. It is very difficult to change travelers cheques and certainly almost impossible outside Accra and Kumasi, unless you change them at a major bank. Barclays has branches in Accra, Kumasi, Cape Coast, and even Tamale where you can change travelers cheques. Expect lines. VISA cards are accepted at major hotels and there are ATMs in Accra, Kumasi and Cape Coast which accept VISA. Be aware that the Cape Coast cash machine is frequently empty. At the main branch of Barclays Bank in Accra you can get a cash advance on your VISA or MasterCard provided you have your passport with you. Bargaining is very much expected in the markets. Large cities such as Accra have markets open every day, but travelers get the true flavor of the country if they have the opportunity to visit a village market on the day of the week that it is open. Most goods will be staple goods, but cloth, beads, musical instruments, bags, and even CD's are usually available.